Ten Winemakers to Watch

February 22, 2012

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There are dozens of Stanford alums in the California wine business. Author Ray Isle, a former Stegner fellow who worked the 1997 Santa Cruz Mountains harvest as a “cellar rat,” picked 10 wineries and winemakers who stand out.

DENNIS FIFE, MBA ’73. A former wine industry executive, Fife abandoned the corporate side of winemaking to concentrate on his own vintages, particularly zinfandels and Rhône blends. These are big, gutsy, emphatic wines—particularly his Max Cuvée, a blend modeled on the classic wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

PETER MONDAVI, ’37. Robert’s younger brother is in charge at Charles Krug, the Mondavi family’s original base of operations and one of Napa’s oldest wineries. Son PETER JR., ’80, MS ’82, MBA ’93, oversees marketing, sales and finance. Though the brothers have disagreed, often dramatically, on many subjects in the past, they’ve never disagreed about the importance of excellent wine.

MILAN MAXIMOVICH, Gr. ’63. For the past few years, from his aerie above Santa Cruz, Maximovich has quietly been producing ultra-premium chardonnays and cabernets at his small winery, Thunder Mountain. Though not widely available, these are subtle, complex, elegant wines, well worth the hunt it may take to find them.

DAVID BRUCE, ’53. One of the gray eminences of California winemaking, Bruce left a career as a physician to found his Santa Cruz mountain winery. Over the years, he has experimented with every varietal, and in almost every style. But his pinot noir remains a reference point for quality.

PAUL DRAPER, ’58. Ridge Vineyard’s Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, Draper’s favorite child, has long been acclaimed as one of the greatest cabernets produced in California. But the winery’s ‘Geyserville,’ a blend of zinfandel, cinsault and other assorted grapes, is equally sought after—and runs a good $30 less per bottle.

AUDREY, ’54, and BARRY STERLING, ’50, JD ’52. The Sterlings started Iron Horse Winery with the ambition of making sparkling wines that could rival those of Champagne. They succeeded, and now they produce high-quality red and white table wines as well.

TOM KLEIN, ’73, MBA ’79. Klein and his father, Bud, ’50, purchased Sonoma’s Rodney Strong Winery in 1989 with the intention of producing high-quality, affordable wines. Among their successes is their Russian River Pinot Noir, a rarity: an affordable pinot noir that actually tastes like pinot noir should.

TOM PETERSON, ’73. Many value-oriented wineries claim their vintages taste like wines priced $20 or $30 higher. But Château Souverain’s Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, at about $13, really does. Why? Good vineyards, of course—but Peterson’s skills as a winemaker play a part, too.

TED ELLIOTT, MBA ’71. Since he joined Sonoma-Cutrer as executive vice president in 1983, this small winery’s chardonnays have become known as some of the best California has to offer. Refined, precise, remarkably elegant, they are a relief from many over-oaked, blowsy California vintages.

JACK STUART, ’68. Silverado, where Stuart is winemaker, is known for its range of wines. Topping the list is their Limited Reserve Cabernet with its wealth of rich black-currant fruit offset by hints of anise and mint.

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