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Plenty to Chew On

Our first-ever food issue offers a smorgasbord of ranchers, researchers, growers and gleaners.

July/August 2013

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Plenty to Chew On

When I was a kid my mother, like all good mothers, tried to get me to eat broccoli. I took one bite and spat it out. Literally. Spat. It. Out. You can imagine my mom's response. Forty years later she still remembers it—don't feed Kevin broccoli.

I later learned I possess a gene that prohibits me from liking broccoli and all its cruciferous cousins such as cauliflower and cabbage. It's an evolutionary response to a chemical compound found in these veggies that mimic certain toxic plants. This evidently saved the life of some distant ancestor but, more important, takes me off the hook with Mom—I wasn't just being a brat all those years ago. I am happy to report that my broccoli-free lifestyle has not seriously impeded my fulfillment: As genetic drawbacks go, being required to avoid bitter, odious substances is quite benevolent.

I mention this not to disparage broccoli but to underscore a fundamental principle that has always applied to me and food: I eat what I like.

I do not agonize over calories or ingredients, nor fuss about cholesterol levels. For me, eating is simple: a little of this, a little of that, hot, cold, warmed up, mostly cooked at home.

Yet despite my resistance to most food trends, I marvel at the creativity and energy dedicated to improving what and how we eat. Few subjects inspire more universal interest or touch on so many areas of life. We live in a time of food fixation, nurtured by the abundance of farmers' markets, specialty grocers and TV cooking shows. Ethnic dishes that once would have been available only in the hippest neighborhoods of major cities are staples in many parts of the United States.

In recent years, our magazine team has continually bumped into stories about Stanford people involved in some aspect of food study, production, distribution or preparation. After much discussion and a few pizzas, we decided to assemble them in one place, and the result is our first-ever food issue. Here is a sampling:

1. Are you confused by conflicting information about nutrition? So were we, so we asked author Nathanael Johnson to look into it. Read his story on how research is changing to address this issue.

2. We hear a lot about the dangers of red meat and the environmental damage caused by livestock. But check out our profile of a fourth-generation cattle rancher who is leading the grass-fed movement and you may alter your point of view.

3. Remember what food was like when you were a student? It's probably different now, and the dining halls aren't just about eating these days. They're also a platform for sustainable living and social justice. Read about it here.

4. You'll find stories about innovations that help Sudanese refugees feed their families; how an alumna's Lower Manhattan restaurant became a gathering place for artists and filmmakers; and, from linguistic professor Dan Jurafsky, insights about how vowel sounds influence our perception of taste.

I learned a lot about food in this issue and I suspect you will, too. I hope it's a satisfying buffet. (Sorry, though, no broccoli.)


Kevin Cool is the executive editor of Stanford.

Email Kevin

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