The stars were twinkling, the brass band struck up its first tune, the couples began to pour in and the sound of taffeta brushing against crinoline filled the air. It was the 25th annual Viennese Ball, the closest Stanford would come to Oscar Night this year, and for me, Stanford’s freelance fashion reporter, it was the closest I’d ever come to being Joan Rivers. I hastily got into character.
My first victims: Walter Shen and An-swol Hu, this year’s ball chairs. After brief introductions, I proceeded: “You look fabulous, daaahlings. Who, may I ask, are you wearing?” They looked blank. Okay, in Hollywood we were not. While they were still contemplating wearing a “who,” I regrouped. “What do you think of tonight’s fashions?” “Oh, everyone looks very elegant and classy,” said Walter. “It’s so nice to see students dressed up for a change.” Boring, I thought, but continued encouragingly: “Does anything stand out this year?” “Well, everyone always looks the same to me, but I love the white gowns on the Opening Committee ladies,” tried An-swol. We were onto something. “Oh yes, white was all over this season’s runways,” I supplied. An-swol beamed, clearly pleased with himself.
I left the boys for a few spins around the dance floor, where some trends became clear to this trained eye. Although tried-and-true black and white was widespread, as usual, it looked very updated in bold graphic stripes, black dresses with white peekaboo pleats, and a lovely vintage number sported by second-year master’s student Katherine Kuchenbecker, ’00, who dazzled in an antiqued ivory organza high-necked empire bodice with a black crinkle crepe skirt. On the other hand, I was pleased to see more color on the floor than I had expected, at least on the ladies. Although the gents were very traditional, their dates were resplendent in shades of crimson, aquamarine, coral and violet. Most notable was Cara Bertron, ’04, who embodied this year’s bohemian/gypsy chic, from her seafoam chiffon layered panel slip dress to the delicate flowers in her hair.
Other trends to note: lots of lace-up or twist backs, plenty of side ruching, a handful of mandarin collars and several flutter sleeves. I loved the tea-length (or mid-calf) looks from Laundry and Alex Evenings, saw not nearly enough fringe and way too much velvet (it was March, let’s not forget, girls). Evening separates played a small but important part—metallic sparkle tops with solid taffeta skirts looked very 2002. Asymmetrical or one-shoulder tops, of which there were few, cried 2001. Lace made a major statement as predicted, nowhere more gloriously than on Bao Phan, ’02, whose friend designed her exquisite black floor-length strapless with beaded lace trim and train, and matching choker necklace.
Beading was everywhere, from solid, all-over caviar beads to ombre or floral patterns to beaded accents. Joyce Shih, ’02, looked playful yet elegant in a punch-colored Cassandra Stone spaghetti-strap gown with red and silver cascade beading on the bodice and a solid georgette skirt. Audrey Tsang, ’02, a swing performer, donned a sophisticated mermaid-tail ballgown with scatter beads and flower appliqués by Sue Wong, a new designer that many other attendees also favored. Connie Chen, ’04, got my vote for best choice of fabric in her v-neck BCBG floor-length coral tulle gown with scattered iridescent paillette sequins. I loved the tulle so much I didn’t even care that the dress was from two seasons ago!
Old-fashioned Victoriana played only a small role, but when it appeared it was outstanding. Donna Sy, ’99 (left), in yards and yards of brick red silk with dark red fringe, black lace trim, portrait collar and cameo brooch, transported me back to the Gone with the Wind era in the best way possible. And vintage, always one of my favorite looks, appeared as relevant and now as ever on the dance floor. Joanna Hiatt, ’02 (top), was my winner in this category, in her mother’s baby blue accordion-pleat gown (purchased for $1 nine years ago) and white beaded gloves. Superb, and perfectly topped off by classic hair and vintage diamond drop earrings.
Speaking of accessories, the tiara reigned supreme this evening. Thankfully, glitter dust seems to have had its day, and hair, overall, looked very elegant, often in piles of pinned-up curls. Unfortunately, the ladies did not make the best use of their most obvious accessory, their dates. There wasn’t nearly enough coordination between couples and, in general, the gents looked quite bland in their Selix rentals. The guys from the swing ensemble stood out in their all-black suits with bold cranberry graphic-print ties. Select others looked just right in updated piqué-textured shirts and bowties, or tonal white-on-white paisley vests, but I saw just one top hat and only a few tails—a less than valiant effort, boys.
That said, two men stood out from the crowd of black tuxes and deserve notice here. Bill Cockayne, a doctoral student in mechanical engineering, sported a delightful charcoal paisley-print corduroy dinner jacket with satin lapels by Saks Fifth Avenue, an embroidered white shirt and simple slacks. Greg Davis, ’03 (right), took the cake, however, in an authentic Scottish kilt in MacFarlane clan tartan, coordinating Prince Charlie cropped coatee and vest with braided trim, and rabbit-fur sporran (the traditional waistpurse). Bold, original and unafraid: my pick for man of the evening. And so what if he’s my brother—good taste just runs in the family, I guess.
Jen Davis, ’99, is an assistant buyer of social dresses at Macy’s in San Francisco.
