It’s just after 2 a.m., but the front               		    door to Columbae isn’t locked. In the student-run cooperative               		    house on the Lower Row, the first-floor lounge—with               		    its battered couches and armchairs—is empty. So is               		    the kitchen. But the smell of hot, fresh bread in the oven               		    is unmistakable.
 
 After a minute or two, Katherine Roubos bounds down the               		  stairs toward the kitchen. Tonight, Roubos is baking bread.               		  Tomorrow, another resident takes a turn. As far as Roubos knows,               		  Columbae residents have been baking bread every night around               		  midnight since the 1960s.
 Roubos, a sophomore, got a late start tonight. She takes               		  nine football-sized loaves of honey wheat from the oven. Except               		  there’s no honey in the bread, Roubos explains, because               		  honey isn’t vegan. She substitutes brown sugar or molasses               		  to accommodate Columbae’s four vegan residents. Loaves               		  from the back of the oven are a bit dark-edged. “Our               		  ovens are old and they direct the heat to these little hot               		  spots,” Roubos says.
 Steam rises from each piece as Roubos slices the first               		  loaf. The crust is perfectly crispy, the inside soft and sweet,               		  if a bit dry. Jess Steinberg, a junior who recently returned               		  from studying in Paris, brings some French brie to the               		  kitchen. Smeared generously on a hunk of bread, the cheese               		  melts like a yawn.
Night owls, insomniacs and graveyard-shift workers—for those who devour the darkness, Stanford is an all-you-can-eat buffet of nocturnal activity.
For many Stanford students, the hours between sunset               			  and sunrise are no different than the daylight hours               			  by which most of the world functions. Staying up late is simply               			  a fact of life: they study, rehearse, eat, play and procrastinate.               			  And behind the scenes, Stanford employees—janitors,               			  sheriff’s deputies, chefs, computer wizards and others—labor               			  in the wee hours to make things more pleasant for the               			  rest of the community.
 
 For three nights this spring, we peeled back the twilight               			  and peeked under the shadows, searching for life after dark               			  on the Farm. Here is what we found.
10:04 p.m.
 Sunny Premakumar is on the attack. He moves his pawn               			    with one hand and slams the digital timer with the               			    other. His opponent moves a rook. They go back and forth               			    three, four, five times at a rapid clip. When the flurry            			    is over, Premakumar adds another queen to his arsenal.
The freshman has been playing chess since he was 6. His opponent tonight, on the back patio of Tresidder, has been playing since before Sunny was born.
Nearly every evening, local residents Joe Salazar,               			  Guy Marlor and several other men gather here for pick-up               			  games of speed chess. With thick European accents,               			  big faded jackets and skullcaps to keep their balding heads               			  warm, they spend hours focused on the chessboard, gulping               			  coffee and smoking limp cigarettes a few feet from a “No Smoking” sign.               			  They used to gather at La Dolce Vita, a coffee shop               			  in Menlo Park, until it closed a few months ago. Now,               			  even though Salazar lives in San Jose, they congregate here               			  for the late-night coffee (the CoHo stays open until 1) and               			  the competition.
 
 Premakumar used to play in tournaments, but these days               			  he prefers quicker contests. He usually sits for a game or               			  two, as he has tonight, after working out in the Tresidder               			  Gym. He smiles sheepishly as Salazar lays down his king, signaling               			  defeat. Salazar reaches for the timer to start a new game,               			  but Premakumar says no thanks. He has homework to do.
 
 As he strolls off, Salazar is five moves deep into               			  another game. 
 
10:34 p.m. 
 The Quad is entirely empty. Not a soul in sight. The               			  mosaic atop Memorial Church, illuminated by floodlights,               			  glows an eerie orange. Its huge doors are locked.
 
 Suddenly, there’s movement, and the sound of bouncing               			  footsteps. Fifty yards and several sandstone arches to the               			  left of the church, a woman dashes beneath the dimly lit arcade.               			  White wires snake down from her ears to her hand: it holds               			  her iPod. She’s jogging the Quad.
 
 10:50 p.m.
 The Urban Styles hip-hop            			    dancers chat and giggle as the music is cued up, but Tracy            			    Conner snaps them back to attention. There are only 10 minutes            			    left in tonight’s               			  rehearsal—the Old Union ballroom closes at 11—and               			  Conner knows the group will need every last repetition               			  if they are to be ready for their spring show.
Conner, a junior, is still working out kinks in this               			  routine. It’s a cadenced Fiona Apple mix, including               			  one song called “Fast as You Can.” The title describes               			  how they’re learning these steps, if the intensity on               			  their faces is any indication.
 
 Conner choreographed this routine, and she spins and               			  twirls while counting the beats: “Five, six, seven,               			  eight.” Her ripped black “Stanford” T-shirt               			  flutters as she moves. The 16 dancers here tonight—15               			  women and one man—shake the ballroom floor with               			  their stomps, hops and thrusts.
 
 When rehearsal ends, Veronica Flores, a co-term in               			  the School of Education, characterizes the               			  group. “There are 10 current and former Dollies in this               			  room,” she says, counting herself. “Urban               			  Styles is where Dollies go to die.”
11:26 p.m.
 On a ledge above Cynthia Cho’s desk at the Stanford               			  Daily is a long row of empty Diet Coke cans—every 12-ouncer               			  consumed since she became editor in chief on January 31.
“Every EIC has their poison of passion,” she says. “Before               			  me, Will Oremus had Red Bull.”
 
 The caffeine craving is understandable. Daily chiefs               			    are contracted to work in the Santa Teresa Street               			    office from 3 p.m. to 3 a.m. Sunday through Thursday. Cho,               			    a senior majoring in political science, wraps up the paper               			    on a good day around 2. (The posted deadline is 1:30.) She               			    returns home and works on her thesis about U.S. control               			    of media in occupied countries for three or four hours,               			    then sleeps until 11 a.m. After a shower and a noon lunch,               			    Cho continues working on her thesis, sometimes at the library,               			    until she’s back at the Daily at 3 p.m. 
 
 ESPN’s SportsCenter plays softly on a nearby television,               			    and Hiram Duran Alvarez munches popcorn while staring               			    at the set. Alvarez, who has worked here on and off               			    for more than 20 years, does layout for the Daily.               			    He’s               			    waiting for text to be dropped into Quark XPress,               			    the software program he uses to design pages. Alvarez,               			    a resident of Fremont, Calif., remembers the days               			    when the Daily was assembled by hand. Digital cameras               			    and desktop publishing software have simplified the process,               			    he says, but the paper isn’t               			    finished any sooner.
 
 “Now it’s more convenient for them to massage their               			  stories,” says Alvarez. “They have the luxury               			  to sit on the paper and edit more, and they take advantage               			  of that.”
 
 As if to prove his point, seniors Camille Ricketts               			    and Simon Shuster talk in hushed tones at a nearby               			    computer. Ricketts, the managing editor for news,               			  is making final edits on Shuster’s second article for tomorrow’s               			    paper. One article concerns a worker strike at all               			    nine UC campuses; the other outlines meal-plan changes               			    proposed by Stanford Dining.
 
 Shuster, who started working at the Daily this year,               			    soon will make the difficult transition from writer               			    to news editor. “You need to be a night person,” Cho               			    explains. “One person we were trying to train to be               			    a news editor couldn’t do it because he needed eight               			    hours of sleep a night.”
11:50 p.m.
 On the second floor of Tresidder, in a room called               			    the Lair, either daylight saving time has ceased to exist               			    or the analog clock on the wall is an hour slow. Not that               			    anyone here seems to care. The inhabitants of this alternate               			    universe have more pressing things to attend to. Like Romanian               			    music videos.
Melody Dye, a sophomore working on her Math 51 assignment,               			  explains. “There’s this ridiculous Romanian pop               			  song with this ridiculous video, and it’s like a campus               			  phenomenon,” she says. “One night               			  last quarter, it was really, really late and I had a paper               			  due. And because there were so few people in the Lair, we               			  were playing it on one of these computers quite loud and people               			  started dancing around. Some random people I didn’t               			  know looked sort of perturbed.”
 
 A few feet away, Evan Raff is reading an article entitled “Barbie               			  Girls versus Sea Monsters: Children Constructing Gender” for               			  a class on boys’ psychosocial development.               			  The junior human biology major works comfortably here,               			  but he’d rather use his home computer. “My computer               			  has a virus,” he says, “and I’m also studying               			  for the MCAT, so I kinda had to take my whole life               			  in here.” Raff               			  admits he’s seen the sun rise through Lair windows at               			  least five times. 
 
 Dimitry Belogolovsky, a senior majoring in computer               			  science, spends nearly every evening here and is familiar               			  with the rosy fingers of a Lair dawn. The sight always makes               			  him feel “like I should be working faster.”
12:28 a.m. 
 Nestled between two purveyors of late-night snacks—the               			  CoHo and the Treehouse—is Tresidder Gym. The cramped               			  first-floor space is packed with equipment, and bright overhead               			  lights give the place the timelessness of a               			  casino. Sixteen people grunt and sweat on stair climbers,               			  rowing machines, bicycles and a variety of weight-training               			  and resistance machines. One person runs on a treadmill               			  facing a blank wall. Others stretch on floor pads while glancing               			  at textbooks or course readers. A janitor vacuums the floor               			  near the treadmills, periodically rubbing his eyes.
The gym stays open until 2 on weeknights and midnight               			  weekends. Armon Sharei, a freshman pedaling on a stationary               			  bike, echoes a common sentiment: “I’d rather be               			  outside during the day, and I come this late because it’s               			  less crowded.”
 
 Elizabette Amaral packs up her belongings. The co-terminal               			  degree student in psychology has a paper due Thursday               			  for her Personality and Psychopathology class. Before Stanford,               			  she was never a gym regular; she admits succumbing               			  to a cult-like mentality of “everybody goes, so I               			  better go. Otherwise I’ll be the only one who’s               			  not got the six-pack abs or something.”
 
 Now Amaral is a devoted gym rat, so much so that the               			  posted hours can’t contain her workouts. “One               			  time I came here on a Sunday night,” she recalls, “and               			  it wasn’t open but the doors were unlocked so I came               			  in anyway. It was dark and I was by myself, but no one kicked               			  me out so I worked out for 45 minutes and I got my energy               			  back up a level. I didn’t turn on a light because I               			  was afraid they’d kick me out.”
1:03 a.m.
 Inside the Enchanted Broccoli Forest—a house on the               			  banks of Lake Lagunita—a big-hair band covers classic               			  Led Zeppelin songs as dozens of partygoers drink and schmooze               			  on an elevated deck.
Fifty yards away on a cement basketball court, three               			  guys with hammers are pounding nails thwack-thwack-thwack into a 6-by-3-foot sheet of wood. In the plywood, propped               			  a few inches off the ground, hundreds of nails protrude toward               			  the pavement in tight rows. Without stopping, the guys explain. 
 
 For Davis Day, they say. Thwack-thwack-thwack.
 
 Since 4 p.m. these members of the Stanford Band’s               			  drum section have been striking nails. Davis Day—a battle-of-the-bands               			  event on the banks of a river near UC-Davis—is this               			  coming Saturday. Every section of the band builds something               			  fun.
 
 Last year, the drummers made a floating hammock. This               			  year, it’s a bed of nails.
1:19 a.m.
 Outside Stern Hall’s dining facilities, bicycles dart               			  by. First, there’s the sound of squeaky wheels, then               			  a white headlight or blinking red taillight whizzes past.               			  Foot traffic is minimal.
Inside, the Stern Cyber Café (also known as Late               			  Night) is teeming. Stepping from the dark serenity of campus               			  into the hustle and bustle of a packed eatery overwhelms               			  the senses. More than 25 students, mostly freshmen,               			  talk and laugh and eat and flirt, lounging on leather couches,               			  stools and in booths. A smoothie machine whirs behind               			  the counter. Rush Hour 2 plays on a flat-screen television, its               			  dialogue delivered throughout the room by speakers hidden               			  in the ceiling.
 
 Eight or nine people line up to order: chicken wings,               			  garlic fries, quesadillas, calzones, pizza by the slice               			  or by the pie, cheesecake, Otis Spunkmeyer cookies,               			  coffee drinks provided by—you guessed it—Starbucks.               			  Almost everyone swipes an ID card to pay, deducting               			  points from University meal plans. The Cyber Café and               			  several other Late Night locations around campus are open               			  till 2 a.m. Three Branner freshmen—with smoothies, teriyaki               			  bowls and mozzarella sticks lined up on the table in front               			  of them—moan               			  with delight as they sample the chicken tenders. “It               			  sure beats dinner,” one of them offers.
 
 1:35 a.m.
 Unless they arrive by ambulance, late-night visitors               			  to the Stanford University Medical Center emergency               			  room meet Ray Oropeza. One of three E.R. admitting               			  representatives on the late shift, Oropeza has been registering               			  patients and snapping bracelets to their wrists for 3 1/2               			  years. Monday through Friday, his day begins at 9 p.m. and               			  ends at 5:30 a.m.
 
 Only 5 to 10 percent of late-night patients come from               			  the Stanford campus. Business pours in instead from               			  East Palo Alto and other communities for which Stanford’s is the               			  closest emergency room. The late shift is unique, Oropeza               			  says, for its particular brand of clientele: “We get               			  all the drunk people, basically.” Victims of car accidents,               			  gunshot wounds, stabbings and other gang-related violence               			  are common. By contrast, lacerations, suture removals,               			  sports injuries and sprains are the daytime shift’s               			  typical fare.
Like many nocturnal workers, Oropeza was lured by the               			  promise of extra pay: he makes about 16 percent more than               			  his daytime colleagues. His traffic-free commute from               			  Fremont has helped keep him working nights. He also likes               			  that he can spend time with his young son during the afternoons.
 
 When Oropeza began working the late shift, in 2001,               			  he thought it would last only a year. How much longer               			  does he think he’ll lead a nighttime life? “Oh, maybe               			  another year.” He pauses. “Or two.”
2:19 a.m.
 On each small black-and-white television screen, someone               			    is asleep. Most of the eight patients are flat on their               			    backs, but one or two are curled up on their sides. Several               			    wires connect each patient to a glowing bank of bedside               			    machines. An overhead light appears to illuminate each room,               			    but these examination rooms are actually pitch black—the               			    light is infrared, as are the cameras that record the sleeping               			    patients.
 Here at the Stanford Sleep Disorders Clinic, four sleep               			  technologists focus not on this central bank of television               			  screens but on eight bright computer screens that circle               			  a control room. On each screen, more than a dozen squiggly               			  lines make their way EKG-like across the “page”—some               			  form tight patterns, while others resemble the scribble               			  of a seismograph recording an earthquake. These lines               			  measure the patient’s pulse, brain waves, leg movements,               			  breathing, blood oxygen levels, rapid eye movement               			  and more. A window in the lower right corner of each screen               			  displays a digital video feed of the snoozing subject. Now               			  that patient monitoring is fully computerized, the bank of               			  television screens is a quaint reminder of the clinic’s               			  early days.
 
 Founded 35 years ago, the world’s first sleep clinic               			  makes its home in an unassuming building on Quarry Road,               			  across the street from the Stanford Shopping Center. The clinic               			  is open for patient monitoring and treatment every night except               			  Saturday, and sleep technologists gather data around the clock.
“We’re like Santa Claus,” says Anissa Guerrero,               			  a night-shift technologist for more than three years. “We               			  know when you’re asleep, and we know when you’re               			  awake. I like to tell the kids who come in here, ‘I’ll               			  know when you’re dreaming, I just won’t know what               			  you’re dreaming about.’ “
 
 The clinic’s most common diagnosis is sleep apnea, but               			    patients also exhibit restless leg syndrome, insomnia, narcolepsy,               			    excessive daytime sleepiness, sleepwalking and other               			    problems. Even with a doctor’s referral, there’s               			    a four- to six-month wait for an appointment at               			    the clinic. “We do see some Stanford students,” Guerrero               			    says, “but it’s mostly med students—they               			    have weird sleep patterns.”
5:20 a.m.
 Sprinklers shoot water across the thirsty grass of               			    Wilbur Field. One sprinkler head needs repair—its               			    stream sprays back and forth over the Campus Drive pavement.               			    The deep blue eastern sky fades to pale gray. A woman jogs               			    by with a long leash pulling her weary dog. A chorus of               			    birds begins to chirp.
 At a quarter to 6, a U.S. Foodservice truck rumbles               			  away from the Stern dining hall loading dock. Inside the Stern               			  kitchen, Jon Rose starts a pot of coffee.
Rose, morning head chef, has been preparing meals for               			  Stanford students for 20 years. The girlfriend he followed               			  to medical school is long gone, says Rose, but he’s               			  still here. 
 
 By 6:10, the kitchen is bustling. Soccoro Barron, a               			  man with a weathered face and strong hands, fills a stainless               			  steel sink with several boxes of tomatoes and begins rinsing               			  them. 
 
 The tomatoes go on a giant metal tray, and an adjacent               			  tray is filled with chopped onions and garlic cloves.               			  Barron places both trays inside a preheated oven. A third               			  tray, sitting next to the oven, is covered with dried jalapenos. “Fire-roasted               			  salsa,” Rose explains. “We make three kinds of               			  salsa and go through 30 gallons a week.”
 
 Now Rose is trying to replace the blades on a slicer. “Aiee!” he               			  yelps. He’s cut himself on a new blade. A minute later,               			  he’s back at a cutting board, his finger bandaged and               			  secure inside a latex glove. Breakfast starts at 8, and there’s               			  much to be done before the early-bird diners come sniffing            			  for freshly baked muffins.
JOSHUA FRIED, ’01, is a freelance writer in San Francisco.
 
             
 
             
  